Stays to Corsets

In both England and America the word corset replaced the word stays. The soft muslin dresses of 1800 clung to the body highlighting the natural body outline. This made it difficult to wear stays, but those with imperfect figures had no choice.

The stays were boned less than in the late 18th Century and were lighter in make up. The newly lengthened stays gave a smoother slinkier shape to the hips and thighs and the bust gained a more natural outline.

When it became fashionable to wear a white slippery silk satin slip over the stays, the dress line became quite smooth as the muslin flowed over the silk underskirt. Later, extra fullness at the skirt back, was supported by a small bustle pad.

The Empire fashions at the turn of the century were often little more than sheer nightgowns. The practical solution to the discomfort of lighter clothing was to adopt the warm male undergarment called pantaloons. Made of light stockinet in a flesh colour they went all the way to the ankles or to just below the knee.

The flesh tone pantaloons acted in the same way flesh toned bra and briefs do today under white or pastel trousers and top. It is for this reason that Empire women seen in paintings of the era, often appear to be wearing no underwear. Right - Corset of 1810.

In the 1820s the skirts widened with frills and were often horsehair padded at hemline to make them stand away from the legs. After 1820 corsets were worn again by all women.

By 1825 the high waist had dropped to its normal position, but skirts became wider and shorter to balance the increasing sleeves. Corsetry was a must again to show off the narrow waist. In the mid 1830s basque shaped pieces were added to the hips.

Corsets after 1840

After 1840 the corset was of a new style made from seven to thirteen individual pieces. The gusseted reinforced stitched corsets of strong white twill cotton, used vertical rows of whalebone shaped to the natural body shape. They were still laced at the back.

Evening dresses had such low décolletage showing exposed shoulders, that the corset had to lose its shoulder straps and become free standing. Because the dress bodices were lengthening the actual dress bodices were boned in sections and this gave not only extra contour, but also helped stop creasing across the body fabric.